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Installation requirements

If you have an assembly kit, you will need the following things
  • Raspberry Pi 4 with 1Gb RAM or more.
  • MicroSD card (at least 16Gb, class 10 recommended).
  • USB-C to USB-A cable.
  • HDMI cable.
  • Straight Ethernet cable (for the ATX board connection).
  • Power supply unit (5.1V 3A USB-C, recommended by the Raspberry Pi).

Before assembling

  • Please review the back of the box. All parts are required before hat is fully functional.
  • The USB-C Bridge is located in with the ATX end which includes a pink foam spacer.

Basic setup

If you have a kit without a metal case, you can use our free 3D printing case drawing: v3.3 for the Kickstarter/Store model, v3.2 for the pre-release.

  1. Flash the memory card.

  2. Build PiKVM according to the video instruction:
    With the metal case
    Device with or without the 3D-printed case

  3. Connect PiKVM to the computer according to the diagram below:

    Back side Front side
    • HDMI input and USB emulation port must be connected to the computer. ATX too, but it's optional, read below. There should be no USB hub between PiKVM and the computer, as some UEFI/BIOS cannot detect them at the boot stage. On the HDMI the HAT, like the CSI bridge, supports 1080p50Hz or 720p60Hz or lower.

    • Connect Ethernet to the network and USB Power to the Raspberry Pi power supply.

  4. Carefully read the "First steps" guide - how to find a device on the network, how to log in there, change passwords, and so on. Follow the steps described there and come back here.

  5. If your kit includes the OLED display and/or the fan, you'll need to turn them on

    Log in to PiKVM and run these commands:

    # rw
    # systemctl enable --now kvmd-oled kvmd-oled-reboot kvmd-oled-shutdown
    # systemctl enable --now kvmd-fan
    # ro

  6. Just reminding again: CHANGE THE PASSWORDS! :)

    How to do this was written in the "First steps" guide

  7. Try to manage the computer using PiKVM with the Web Interface. Make sure that you see the image, and the keyboard and mouse are working. If something doesn't work, check out our FAQ (it's really useful). If nothing helped, you can get support in our Discord chat.

  8. Check the HDMI backpowering problem

    Try restarting PiKVM using the reboot command executed in the terminal. If PiKVM hangs during boot (you can't get the Web Interface for a long time), then you are faced with this rare problem. Don't worry, it's easy to fix. Turn off the PiKVM, disconnect all cables from it, take a close look at the diagram of its ports and jumpers, and remove jumper #14 (it is to the right of the CSI connector). Then you can connect and power up PiKVM again. Now everything will be fine.

  9. IO ports and other things

    Before using GPIO pins to control a relay, KVM switch, or anything else, be sure to check the HAT pinout. Many ports are busy with internal functions. Before using them for your own use, you must disable them, otherwise you may damage the device.

ATX connection

To manage the power of your computer, you will need to install an ATX adapter board inside the case and connect it to the motherboard.

  1. Connect the rainbow wires as follows to the board. Optionally print the mounting plate for the PCI slot on a 3D-printer. Assemble everything like on pictures below. Secure wires in any convenient way (we used soft ties).


  2. Find the pins on the motherboard responsible for connecting the buttons and LEDs of the front panel of the case. Usually wires and connectors on the motherboard have designations. If you're not sure, check the documentation on your motherboard.


  3. Place the ATX board nearby and, focusing on the signatures, connect the male pins to the female pin of the front panel wires, observing the polarity (the polarity is indicated on the ATX board).


  4. Repeat the procedure with the female pin of the ATX board by connecting them to the motherboard connector. Check the documentation on your motherboard.


  5. Install the ATX board into the PCI slot of the case and fix it with a screw, or use a different mounting method at your discretion.


  6. Arrange the wires in a way that is convenient for you and fix them if necessary.


  7. Connect the ATX board to PiKVM using a straight Ethernet cable.


IO ports and jumpers

See the diagram

  1. ATX controller interface (power on/off, reboot control, PWR and HDD ACT LEDs).
  2. HDMI reset jumper.
  3. SPI and GPIO for the custom extension boards.
  4. Audio capture jumpers.
  5. UART access pins.
  6. Serial console port (for the Raspberry Pi or server console access).
  7. USB-C console port.
  8. Power and activity LEDs.
  9. USB-C power input.
  10. I2C display connector.
  11. Alternate +5V power input/output header pins.
  12. RTC clock supercapacitor (rechargeable).
  13. FAN connector - PWM controlled.
  14. CSI-2 interface and HDMI backpowering jumper.
  15. Built-in power splitter port.
  16. HDMI capture port (max 1080p @ 50Hz) with sound capture support.
  17. USB emulation pins for alternative access.
  18. USB-C emulation port - this port is doing the emulation of a USB keyboard, mouse, Virtual CD-ROM or USB Flash Drive, USB-Ethernet, USB-Serial port and a lot of other Linux-supported features.
  19. 1-Wire & Neo-pixel interface (under, advanced user feature).

================ PINOUT TODO ====================

ATX RJ-45 pinout

The pinout of the RJ-45 connector is the same on the AT and ATX adapter.

ATX LED wiring example

Known issues and limitations

  • The actual frame rate of the image received via HDMI will depend on the network bandwidth, resolution and the load on the Raspberry Pi. This is usually ~20-24 FPS for 1080p over LAN.
  • There may be compatibility issues with some motherboards (such as HP or DELL) which are the same as those that exist with PiKVM v2. Not everything is perfect, but if you have already used PiKVM v2 - our new v3 will work perfectly and please you. If there is no image from the BIOS, you can fine-tune the HDMI settings, but it is possible that the Mass Storage devices will not be available in the BIOS.
  • Pre-release v3.2 board (NOT Kickstarter/Store edition) doesn't have HDMI backpowering workaround jumper.
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